Now That's Hospitality!

Daisy is in Kyrgyzstan for a reporting assignment. Very exciting.

Imagine her surprise, upon checking into her hotel in the capital, Bishkek, this morning, to find this tube of toothpaste awaiting.

All first impressions should be like this.

UPDATE: Turns out Daisy isn't the only person with a toothpaste named in her honor!

Ol' Black Water Keep On Movin'

This is a video of Blackwater Falls in Davis, West Virginia, on October 1, 2010. Daisy and I were married at Blackwater Lodge the next day.

I've been to Blackwater Falls many times, but I never recall seeing this much water passing over the brink. There'd been torrential rain for the previous day or two, swelling the river.

In fact, an experienced kayaker was tragically killed in the Class V rapids on the river below these falls just a few hours after I shot this video.

Compare it to a video I shot of the same falls in April 2010:

Autumn Hike To Přední Kopanina

Cool Fonts, Continued

Above a disused door in the Želivského metro station in Prague.

Part of my continuing series on preserving some cool old fonts I come across in Prague, and elsewhere...


A change machine at Blackwater Falls Lodge in Davis, West Virginia. Echoes of the old Tab soda cans, no?

Oh, Happy Day!

Daisy, Emma and I make our grand entrance.

Daisy and I got married on October 2 at Blackwater Falls State Park in Davis, West Virgina, amid the rugged splendor of the Allegheny Mountains. After a year of planning and worry, the wedding weekend went off without a hitch.

My parents used to take my sister Carol and me to the park almost every autumn to see the leaves. Their families lived not too far away, so Blackwater Falls became an almost-annual pilgrimage for us from wherever we were living at the time (Ohio, Illinois, Pennsylvania -- we moved a lot).

I have fond memories of walking the wooden stairs down to the falls, holding my hands over my ears because of the deafening roar of the cascade (or so it seemed to me at the time).

When Daisy and I were talking about places to hold the ceremony, I thought of Blackwater Falls -- especially since we were planning a fall wedding. My father was not in the best of health at the time and likely couldn't have made the trip to Prague, or anywhere else too far away. He was thrilled when I told him where we'd decided to get married.

Sadly, he passed away in February. His spirit was with us on our wedding day, though.

Despite torrential rains just a few days before, our wedding day was bright and sunny. Around 75 family and friends from Prague, Syracuse, Denver, Seattle, Gainesville, Minneapolis, Chicago, Washington, D.C., New York, and various other points across New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Maryland all converged for the big day.

We were so grateful for their presence.

On an obviously slow news day, "The New York Times" even saw fit to write a fun little story about us, which you can read here.

Before I get to the photos of the ceremony, I wanted to publish a wonderful poem that was written for us as a wedding gift by Carolyn Reamer, the mother of Keith Reamer, who is Daisy's uncle and the husband of our celebrant, Murphy Birdsall. Carolyn and her husband, Leon, are lovely folks.

Daisy and I were so tickled to receive this hand-written poem, which is so charming for so many reasons:

A WEDDING TALE

Do you know the why and wherefore --
You're the one I seem to care for --
A lovely phrase from a song of my youth.

Whither you goest, I will go:
A simple statement, don't you know,
From a biblical lass named Ruth.

Oh, I've taken the plunge:
Well: More like a lunge
To partake of the nuptial confection.
After substantial reflection
And wee bits of correction.
Aren't we pleased with our selection?

Some ladies will cry;
As they swabbed each eye,
I asked them why.
Romantic bliss
Can collect in a ditch, they said.

I fled.

To be always ecstatic
Won't be automatic
Dear ones, there is nothing to fear.
I'll bet in the attic
There's a dusty schematic
On how to put love back in gear.

When the multitudes
with platitudes
And amplitudes
Defuse --
That labyrinth of soulful views:
Which to keep, which not to use.
Give everyone credit
Then edit.

You both sparkle and glisten.
We are on exhibition
We lean in to listen.
Are they married yet?
Trilled in soprano pitch.
"Five seconds ago, ma'am. a bonafide hitch!"
That should suffice --
Throw the rice.

Thanks again to everyone who made our day so special.


Daisy and I applying for our marriage license on a rainy day at the Tucker County Courthouse in Parsons, West Virginia. Everyone was so nice.


The lodge at Blackwater Falls, built in the late 1950s.


The canyon at Blackwater Falls State Park. The fall colors were not as brilliant this year, they said, because of a severe drought during the summer. Still plenty beautiful, though.


The spectacular 62-foot-high (19 meters) Blackwater Falls. Due to all the rain, there was more water spilling over than I had ever seen before.


The water in the Blackwater River is the color of dark tea, due to the tannins in the water from the hemlock and red spruce.


On the morning of the wedding, we organized a nature hike led by the park naturalist, Paulita Cousin.


The nature hike took in the smaller -- but no less beautiful -- Elakala Falls, not far from the lodge itself.


A gifted local musician, Roy Levine, who also happens to be my brother-in-law, played piano during the ceremony.


The wedding party, with the Blackwater gorge behind us.


Daisy's aunt, Murphy Birdsall, a celebrant with the Universal Brotherhood Movement, wrote and performed the ceremony. So many guests came up to us afterward to say how beautifully written and personal they thought the ceremony was. Thanks, Murphy!


Daisy's father, Paul Sindelar, and his wife, Alyson Adams.


Daisy, looking ravishing.


Modeling The Most Expensive Tie In The World.


Daisy's mother, Robin (left), and my mom, Mitz, helped out with a traditional Slavic bread-and-salt ceremony. The bread was baked by Daisy's aunt, Jennifer Elgrim. The salt came from Hallstatt, Austria, where I proposed to Daisy.


Even Emma got to taste a bit of the wine.


My best man, Stewart Moore, a great friend who lives nearby here in Prague.


Emma (right) and Hannah Sholar, Daisy's father's stepdaughter, recited "The Owl and the Pussycat" by Edward Lear.


Daisy's college friends from her days in Moscow, Kristin Witting (left) and Anna Connolly, performed a song by the Russian band Akvarium. The song title is translated as "Sitting On A Beautiful Hill." They were wonderful. See a video of their performance below:




The traditional kowtowing before the bride. Actually, the ground was really uneven, which made for a lighter moment at one point in the ceremony.


A shivaree was sounded after the vows were said, to scare away any bad spirits. We handed out all sorts of noisemakers before the ceremony began.


I think Emma was a bit overwhelmed by all the noise!


Our friend Momchil Blagoev got the noisemaker-of-honor.


Clothespin Daisy, Grant and Emma at the reception. Our cupcakes were baked by a local Mennonite bakery. So good.


Our good friend Tanya Kancheva (Momchil's wife) took this portrait of us for "The New York Times." She also took most of the photos you see on this post.


My mother, Mitz, has a laugh. She's doing so well in her recovery from hip surgery.


Some of the guests played croquet out on the lawn of the Blackwater Lodge after the ceremony.


We got married in West Virginia. Where did you think we'd go on our honeymoon?

We Do!

Sorry I haven't posted recently, but I have a good excuse.

Daisy and I got married on October 2 at Blackwater Falls State Park in Davis, West Virginia.

I'll be posting more about it shortly, but in the meantime, here are a few photos from the big day.

Country Of Cool Fonts

I've always loved typography and design.

Prague is full of old signs in wonderfully weird fonts. Many of them date back to the communist days. Like this sign for a potraviny, or grocery store, in the Prague 6 neighborhood.

You'd think it would have been removed ages ago and replaced with some modern-day signage. Which would have been a shame, really.

I'll try to keep my camera handy and record some other cool fonts I come across in my wanderings. They must be preserved.

Snapshots From An American Journey

A street scene in Davis, West Virginia.

I recently returned from a week in the United States. I accompanied my mother back home after she fell in Prague and broke her hip.

I'd thought I'd share a few random photos from my trip, just little scenes of Americana that captured my fancy.


A cool Chevrolet Biscayne -- from 1962, I think -- parked on my mom's street in Cumberland, Maryland.




A classic American liquor store at dusk -- Cumberland, Maryland.


Drive-thru cigarettes and beer in Ridgeley, West Virginia. The line was five or six cars long when I drove past.

Riding A Paternoster, And Living To Tell The Tale

I am fascinated by a device called a paternoster.

If you're reading this in the United States, you probably don't have the foggiest idea what I'm talking about. That's because paternosters don't exist in the U.S., as far as I know, because they are a lawsuit waiting to happen.

A paternoster is an elevator made up of a series of constantly moving shelves. Passengers don't push a button to call the elevator. They simply wait for the shelf to move even with the floor they're standing on and then step into the paternoster. They then ride the paternoster to the floor they desire, and then simply step off. Being careful to time it right so the entrance to, or exit from, the paternoster is smooth and graceful.

The shelves then continue up -- usually passengerless -- and then change direction in some dark, cobwebby corner of the building, and then continue their journey down. It's an endless loop. (Ostensibly, you can stay on the paternoster while it makes its transition from up to down, but warning signs in bright red urge passengers to disembark.)

It's easy to misjudge the speed of the paternoster and either step on or off too early or too late. If you're elderly or a kid or pushing a baby carriage or just not paying attention, you're toast. Take the stairs.

There are more than 100 paternosters scattered around Eastern and Western Europe and Russia. But their numbers are dwindling due to numerous injuries and, yes, even deaths blamed on paternosters. According to Wikipedia, five people were killed while riding paternosters between 1970 and 1993.

A few days ago, I rode a paternoster in the Pasáž Lucerna -- an old indoor mall, of sorts -- in central Prague. I filmed my ride and put together a little narrated film of my experience.

I hope you enjoy it.

Pie In The Sky (Almost) -- Dining In Delta's 'Business Elite'

The filet of beef and horseradish sauce, lyonnaise potatoes, and haricots verts.

You can't go home again, Thomas Wolfe famously said. If he'd been a frequent flyer in today's world, he might have said you can't go back to coach.

As everyone who's ever done it has remarked afterward, once you've had the pleasure of flying in first class or business class, especially on a trans-Atlantic flight or trans-Pacific flight, it's damn near impossible -- indeed, physically painful -- to walk through first-class with the other cattle to the back of the plane on your next flight, knowing, finally, what you're missing.

I'm a Delta frequent flyer and have been fortunate enough to have flown in their equivalent of first class, called Business Elite, a half-dozen times or so. (Delta combined their first- and business-class seats into one class.) It's always been because I've purchased a more-expensive "upgradeable" ticket and then used 50,000 or so of my frequent flyer miles to upgrade to Business Elite.

It's expensive but worth the splurge every once in a while.


Mitz chilling in the business-class lounge at the Prague airport.

Delta's Business Elite is really quite comfortable, although not nearly as luxurious as some other airlines, or so I've heard. I'm 6 foot 3 inches (about 190 centimeters) and am unable to touch the seat in front of me with my toes, even if I stretch. The seats could be wider, but they do recline almost to horizontal, and there's a thick blanket and a big pillow to help you sleep. There's also a personal video screen at each seat with on-demand movies, games and TV shows.

But for me, the food and drink is the real entertainment.

I recently accompanied my mother back to the United States from Prague. She'd come to visit but fell and broke her hip a few days after she arrived. (You can read more about that here.) She needed a helping hand on her return journey.


My mom, Mitz, trying to decide whether to have the filet of beef or the roasted chicken breast.

When we arrived at the airport in Prague for our flight to New York, we discovered that they'd overbooked the flight and were making seats available in coach by upgrading frequent flyers to Business Elite, including my mother and me. I couldn't have been more tickled, since, in addition to the food and drink and leg room, the seats meant my mom could raise and support her legs for the entire flight.

So, what'd we eat and drink, and how good was it, really?

I started out with a glass (a real glass) of crisp Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne as we got ourselves situated.

Once in the air, I switched to a glass (again, a real glass) of small-batch Woodford Reserve bourbon on the rocks, which blew my socks off, it was so good. (Hard to believe, but that's Delta's "house" bourbon.) I soon had another. Smooth, spicy, with notes of luscious caramel.

Then it was time for the main meal, served on a linen tablecloth and on real china with real cutlery, all of which sounds trivial and pretentious but somehow makes the whole dining experience feel slightly decadent.

We started with a subtle cream of cauliflower soup, grilled rosemary shrimp (small and forgettable), a few cold asparagus spears with herb butter (ditto), and a hearty pumpernickel roll. That was followed by a remarkably fresh mixed green salad with cucumber, tomato and almonds.


The appetizers: cream of cauliflower soup, grilled rosemary shrimp and asparagus.

For the main course, both my mother and I chose the "Tender Fillet of Beef," advertised as "enhanced by horseradish sauce, served with lyonnaise potatoes and sauteed haricots verts." The generous slab of beef -- though overcooked to an everyman's medium-well -- was awakened by the surprisingly tasty horseradish sauce. The potatoes were also quite flavorful for 35,000 feet. The beans were forgettable and suffered from being splayed across the plate. (My mom's plate was a bit more appealing to the eye.)

Other choices on that flight for the main course included Roasted Chicken Breast, Spiral Pasta, and Roast Beef and Smoked Salmon.

As for the wine, I chose the full-bodied, peppery goodness of Renwood Winery Sierra Foothills Zinfandel 2007 from California. I could also have had a 2005 Burgess Merlot from Napa Valley.

As for whites, my mom had the the Patz & Hall Dutton Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, California, 2006, which she quite enjoyed. She could also have chosen the Michel Leon Vin d'Alsace Riesling, Alsace, France, 2008.


A fresh mixed green salad with cucumber, tomato and almonds.

For dessert, I chose a selection of "fine cheeses" and a glass of the Chambers Rosewood Muscat, Rutherglen, Australia, while my mom opted for the warm chocolate cake and coffee. We could also have chosen a made-to-order ice cream sundae, made with all-natural vanilla ice cream and a choice of sauces, whipped cream and chopped nuts.


My mom's warm chocolate cake with chocolate syrup and whipped cream, and a decent cup of coffee.


A selection of "fine cheeses" for me, and a glass of muscat.

The meal wasn't quite as high-class as all the fancy words make it sound, but there's no denying that the meal, served by ever-smiling flight attendants, was thoroughly enjoyable from start to finish. And if you're of a mind to indulge, the wine and liquor never stop flowing.

For what they call the "Pre-Arrival Meal," we were served an absolutely delicious roasted chicken breast sandwich, topped with pesto and provolone and a cold salad plate with smoked salmon. For some reason, that chicken sandwich really hit the spot. Perhaps because I hadn't expected anything with so much flavor for a meal that could easily be treated as an afterthought.


The "pre-arrival meal" of a roasted chicken breast sandwich, smoked salmon salad, and warm cookie.

My mom, who had never flown first class or business class in her life, could not have been more thrilled by the flight, which made me enjoy it all the more. The food wouldn't win any awards on the ground (except, perhaps, for that chicken sandwich), but the meals and the extra room and comfy seats and in-flight entertainment and the smiling flight attendants and, yes, the ever-flowing alcohol combine for a truly memorable experience.

Daisy and I are treating ourselves to Business Elite when we fly to the United States later this month to get married. Emma will be traveling with us, of course, and I'm betting that that ice-cream cart could be in some serious trouble.


The dessert cart making its way down the aisle.


A naked ice cream sundae, awaiting its nuts, whipped cream, and sauces.


As a design buff, I was quite taken with these miniature salt-and-pepper shakers, a different set served with the two meals.